The turbo-prop banks through pink clouds, revealing the island below: bottle-green hills, thumbnail crescents of sand, jade Caribbean shallows, wooden shacks and homes. And a crinkly coastline.

Bequia, half an hour by air from Barbados, is a prized dot in the archipelago nation of St Vincent and the Grenadines, which includes billionaire hideaway Canouan and celebrity magnet Mustique.

Our plane hits the cricket-pitch airstrip with a ‘Whoa!’ from the white-knuckled on board. The winding south-coast road to the hotel is steep and bumpy. People wave from bus stops, waysides are grazed by goats and the air smells of hibiscus.

When I last came, eight or so years ago, Caribbean old hands were already proclaiming Bequia (‘bek-wy’) the next big thing in the Windies. So I’m a little nervous. Has it changed? Or is it still unspoilt, unhurried and unassuming?

Thankfully, I am delighted to find the boutique Bequia Beach Hotel, with its sea-view balcony suites and cottages, still convivial and family-run.

Genial Swedish owner Bengt Mortstedt greets arrivals, aided either by his daughter or son and daughter-in-law. The gardens are busy with palms and paintbox-bright flowers, while the guests — mostly happy returnees — are never too old to gyrate to the DJ’s calypso sounds. After a dip in…